What You Can (And Can’t) Use During Pregnancy for Melasma, Breakouts and Ageing

I never thought I’d have an intimate connection to pregnancy skincare... yet three kids later, here we are! 

Turns out, being a dermal therapist and mum-of-three makes me especially qualified to speak about how skin changes during pregnancy.

Everyone's pregnancy skin experience will be different.

Some will have that pregnancy 'glow'. Others, a melasma moustache or pregnancy acne. Or both.

And fun fact, how your skin changes during pregnancy might even differ from your first pregnancy to your second (and your third, like mine did).

Despite looking after people's skin for a job, I've never been one of those glowy pregnant women.

All three of my pregnancies were incredibly hard, and my skin often felt wild and out of my control. 

Unlike the number of cheese toasties I consumed, which was firmly IN my control.

Which was a weird thing in itself because I never eat cheese toasties... but that’s pregnancy for you. 

Pregnancy can cause significant changes in the skin, but it'll also change your skincare routine.

Huh? Well, some popular skincare products like vitamin A aren't safe for use during pregnancy and while breastfeeding.

So, when literally everything is changing and you're not feeling great about your skin (along with many other things), how are you meant to treat your skin concerns?

There's a lot of fear-mongering and opinions to manage, but don't stress.

I'm here to tell you there are a few things you can do to look after your skin during pregnancy, as well as in the postpartum months that follow.

You can listen to our full pregnancy skincare conversation on the Dermal Diaries episode of Adore’s Bite-Sized Beauty podcast below.

Pregnancy Skincare and Beauty Products to Avoid.

First thing to know: If you're thinking about falling pregnant, trying to conceive or maybe you’re halfway there, please always check things with your doctor/OBGYN.

Whether it's what ingredients you can use, skin treatments or skincare products to avoid, your doctor will know what is best for you. 

Now, let's talk about what ingredients to avoid during pregnancy.

Honestly, navigating what you can/can’t use during pregnancy/breastfeeding will feel like a bit of a minefield when you first start.

And you will stumble on many differing opinions. 

As a blanket rule, these are the skincare ingredients that are not recommended during pregnancy:

• Vitamin A - Evidence suggests prescription retinoids like accutane pose a risk of birth defects, so the blanket medical recommendation is to avoid vitamin A altogether during pregnancy (and post-birth while breastfeeding).

• Hydroquinone - During pregnancy, it's recommended to avoid this skin lightening agent that's otherwise beneficial for treating certain skin concerns like melasma (human research is limited due to obvious ethical limitations, however studies on animals have shown it may have adverse effects).

• Salicylic acid - High doses of this ingredient in its oral form have been shown to cause pregnancy complications. Doctors generally advise salicylic acid in strengths up to 2 per cent in skincare products is OK, but some may prefer to avoid it altogether. 

• There's very little evidence to support avoiding chemical sunscreens, fragrances and essential oils during pregnancy, but if you're concerned, best to discuss with your doctor.

You can also watch dermatologist Dr Michelle Rodrigues explain everything you need to know about pregnancy skincare in the YouTube video below.

Active Ingredients You Can Use During Pregnancy.

Now onto the fun stuff… all of the active ingredients you CAN use. 

You see, I get that when you’re pregnant, the skincare world can feel wildly confusing and every pregnant woman wants to be doing the right thing! 

However, there is no need to be scared of every single active ingredient.

Like yes, take away your vitamin A. But there’s no need to take away all of your exfoliants too.

That would be cruel. 

Here's a list of pregnancy safe skin care ingredients:

• Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) - Glycolic acid skin care during pregnancy is perfectly safe to get rid of dead skin cells, resurface and brighten the skin. You might prefer gentler chemical exfoliating acids like mandelic and lactic acids.

• Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) - These are even gentler chemical exfoliating acids suitable for sensitive skin. They also don’t penetrate the skin as deeply.

• Enzyme exfoliants - Again, another gentle chemical exfoliant suitable for all skin types. Especially anyone feeling extra sensitive during pregnancy. 

• Vitamin C - Unless your medical professional says otherwise, vitamin C serums are safe to use during pregnancy. L-ascorbic and all its derivatives are great antioxidant ingredients that brighten the skin and protect against free radical damage.

• Vitamin B - Vitamin B3 or niacinamide is a must-have for every pregnant woman. It regulates sebum production, reduces inflammation, hydrates and is great for pigmentation too. It's actually one of my favourite pregnancy skin ingredients!

You can learn more about vitamin B for skin in this YouTube video below.

Pregnancy Safe Skin Care Products.

See? Pregnancy skin care doesn't have to be all or nothing.

Let's move onto some product recommendations for managing common pregnancy skin concerns.

These include pregnancy acne, increasingly dry and itchy skin, hormonal hyperpigmentation or melasma, skin tags and cherry angiomas.

Like everything that happens to your pregnant body, these are usually hormone-induced and go away after birth. If you are concerned, chat to your doctor or dermatologist.

1. Acne During Pregnancy.

Many people will experience hormonal acne during pregnancy. I was one of them.

It's most common during the first two trimesters due to the increase in androgens.

These hormones encourage your oil glands to produce more sebum, which consequently leads to clogged pores and breakouts.

There’s often not a lot you can do about pimples during pregnancy because they'll be there as long as the hormones are.

Rather, it's about management and supporting the skin barrier.

Pregnancy acne skin care:

• Usually reach for strong salicylic acid products to manage hormonal acne? Try a gentler AHA or BHA cleanser during pregnancy (no more than 2 per cent salicylic acid).

• Apply a niacinamide serum such as Aspect Extreme B 17 both morning and night, this will help regulate oil production and calm the skin.

• COSRX Acne Pimple Master Patch will keep you from picking blemishes and help them heal.

2. How to Treat Melasma (Hyperpigmentation) During Pregnancy.

Melasma are those blotchy spots of darker skin that give an overall uneven or mottled skin appearance.

Melasma is triggered by heat and UV exposure, but also hormonal changes. It can appear on the cheeks, forehead, nose, chin and upper lip - also known as a melasma moustache.

This type of hyperpigmentation during pregnancy is more common in those with a Fitzpatrick skin type of 4 or above.

Again, there's not a lot you can do to treat melasma during pregnancy. It often goes away post- birth, but the best thing is a combination of skin treatments and active skin care once you've finished breastfeeding.

Pregnancy melasma skin care:

• Be diligent about avoiding sun exposure by wearing and re-applying adequate sunscreen (always read the label and apply as directed), seeking shade, and wearing protective clothing and sunnies.

• Vitamin C and niacinamide skin care can help to manage skin appearance.

• A pregnancy-safe tyrosinase inhibiting serum is also super beneficial.

• PCA Skin Vitamin B3 Brightening Serum is my favourite pregnancy pigmentation serum (you can read my PCA Skin Brightening B3 Serum review here).

3. Pregnancy-Safe Vitamin A Alternatives.

If you're into skin care like I am, you might feel a bit lost without your vitamin A products.

And skin treatments. And injectables. It's a lot.

However, there are other ingredients you can use to address signs of premature ageing during this period. 

Pregnancy-safe skin care for signs of ageing:

• Copper peptides are great ingredients to use during pregnancy.

• They've been proven to provide skin rejuvenating effects similar to vitamin A, so peptides are also perfect for anyone who usually can’t tolerate vitamin A skin care.

• NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 3 1:1 - 30ml was a favourite of mine during pregnancy.

• The dropper is a bit fiddly, although it lasted for around six months with nightly use and I felt this was a great alternative to vitamin A. 

4. Dry Skin Pregnancy Fixes.

Drier and itchier skin on the face and body during pregnancy is normal.

Again, these are due to hormonal changes that cause your skin to lose elasticity and moisture. Plus, when your skin is stretching at a rapid rate (especially across the stomach and breasts), it can feel especially itchy.

• Simple swaps like using a hydrating cleanser instead of gel, trying a shower oil instead of body wash, and including a hydrating serum in your routine can help make the skin feel more comfortable.

• Here are some dry skin products I love:

  • SkinCeuticals Hydrating B5 Gel - 30ml

  • Bioderma Atoderm Cleansing Oil 1L

  • La Roche-Posay Toleriane Dermo Cleanser

5. Stretch Marks During Pregnancy.

Finally, it wouldn't be an article about pregnancy skin changes without mention of stretch marks.

Obviously the body skin is stretched during this time, and voila, you've got stretch marks.

They're very common, and for many, unavoidable.

Whether you'll get them has less to do with any cream you did or didn't use, and more to do with your hormones and genetic predispositions. 

There is no magic miracle cream to get rid of stretch marks, but applying a daily moisturiser to your body during pregnancy won't hurt. Plus, it can make tight skin feel more comfortable.

Kiehl's Crème de Corps is a personal favourite body moisturiser of mine.

To conclude, something that helped me feel better about my pregnancy skin was reminding myself it's mostly temporary.

Pregnancy isn’t forever - even though sometimes, it feels like there's no end in sight.

I promise, you’ll be back on your vitamin A serum one day before you know it.

*All information in this article is not intended to substitute personalised, professional advice given by a healthcare professional. Always consult with your doctor before trying new skincare products.

Want to know more about looking after your skin during and after pregnancy? Check out these articles below...

• I Have 3 Kids Under 5 & These Fast Skincare Hacks Make Me Look Like I've Slept

• How To Treat Dry and Itchy Skin During Pregnancy

• Is Your Skin Feeling Irritated? Try These 4 Calming Skincare Ingredients