Explaining The Latest Viral Ingredients: PDRN, Cica, Azelaic Acid, Exosomes & Growth Factors

You probably heard a lot of your favourite skinfluencers talking about certain trending ingredients in 2025, but what do they actually do?

We enlisted the help of Tegan Mac, our resident dermal therapist (and podcast host), to give us a proper explanation of last year's buzziest ingredients and whether they're worth investing in in 2026.

Above is the video with all the info you need, but if you'd prefer to read (and save or screenshot so you have at your disposal), keep scrolling ⬇️.

Colloquially known as "salmon sperm", polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN) are DNA fragments from salmon.

PDRN benefits: Improved elasticity, hydration, healing and maintaining health of the skin.

They're generally safe to use on all skin types and can be helpful after in-clinic treatments.

Medicube has a famous range of very satisfying looking PDRN products such as their Medicube PDRN Pink Collagen Capsule Cream that all aim to give you calm, soothed and luminous skin.

While PDRN can be harvested in cruelty-free ways on fish farms (as salmon naturally release large volumes of it when spawning) it's obviously not vegan, so vegans beware! It may not be for everyone, but everyone can benefit from using it in their routines.

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid known for its anti-inflammatory and hyperpigmentation-fighting properties.

Azelaic acid benefits: Calming, evening skin tone, can improve the appearance of acne, pigmentation or perioral dermatitis.

Although it is an 'acid', it doesn't have the same exfoliating effects as lactic, salicylic or glycolic acids. You can use it in conjunction with other exfoliating products, as it's quite gentle (depending on the individual products you choose).

Some products like Murad Blemish Control Retexturizing Body Pads contain both azelaic for rebalancing and salicilic and glycolic for exfoliating.

Centella asiatica is a plant extract that has actually been around for a long time in the skincare world. It's very common and likely some of your skincare at home already has cica in it.

Cica benefits: soothes, calms and supports skin health and regeneration.

You will see this ingredient a lot in Korean and Japanese skincare, but also in the classic French pharmacy brand La Roche-Posay with their iconic Cicaplast range.

If you have an impaired barrier or sensitised skin, cica is a fantastic ingredient. Specifically the ever popularLa Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5+ 100ml which is a really simple, soothing moisturiser that a lot of our AB staff use on troublesome skin.

Growth factors are proteins produced by the body to control growth, division and maturation of cells, including collagen regeneration. In skincare they protect the skin and stimulate the growth of new cells.

Growth factors skincare benefits: Improved elasticity, improved appearance of fine lines and repairing skin tissue.

Fun fact: some growth factors are human-derived (again, vegans beware!), but are most commonly plant derived.

A few innovative cosmeceutical brands are bringing out very potent (and bougie) growth factor serums.

If you have a bit of budget to spare and want a serum that does a bit of everything and looks after your skin, check out PCA or Osmosis.

What are exosomes for skin? Exosomes carry signals between cells and help ensure your skin is functioning well.

They can actually assist with the cellular communication of growth factors, so are often seen in products together. (see the aforementioned Osmosis Skincare StemFactor Growth Factor Serum 30ml as an example).

Exosomes skincare products benefits: boosted collagen & elastin, improved skin texture and improved healing abilities.

You may see these used during in-clinic treatments such as skin needling or post laser, but are also starting to appear in at-home skincare products.

So do you need to immediately buy products with all these ingredients?

Well no, you may actually find these ingredients in products you already have at home.

The good thing about trending ingredients, however, is most of them are gentle and have a focus on repair. So in comparison to other years (I see you peeling solutions of the past), most people can try any of these trending ingredients and be pretty safe.

If these ingredients excite you, go for your life and shop all the products mentioned in this article below: