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What they are and how they work:
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as the fundamental building blocks of essential skin proteins, namely collagen, elastin, and keratin. Think of them as cellular personal trainers. When applied topically, they send specific biological signals to your skin cells, instructing them to perform targeted tasks – like manufacturing fresh collagen, relaxing expression lines, or repairing a damaged barrier. Without peptides, the skin loses its structural integrity, leading to a loss of firmness and the formation of wrinkles.
● Peptides are best suited for: Mature, thinning, sagging, or dehydrated skin types looking to restore bounce and firmness. Also great for anti-ageing prevention.
● Skin types/concerns that peptides help with: Fine lines, deep wrinkles, loss of elasticity, sagging contours, dehydration, and skin thinning.
● Pairs well with: Hyaluronic acid, ceramides, niacinamide, vitamin C, retinoids, and growth factors.
● Doesn’t pair well with: High-strength, low-pH exfoliating acids (like glycolic or salicylic acid) and pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) in the exact same application. The intense acidity can break down the peptide bonds, rendering them useless.
FAQs
How do I use peptides?
Peptides are most effective when left on the skin, so look for them in serums, eye creams, or moisturisers. They can be used twice daily, morning and night. Apply your peptide serum after cleansing and toning, and before heavier creams.
Can I use peptides with retinol?
Yes, they’re an absolute power couple. Retinol speeds up skin cell turnover and stimulates collagen production, while peptides provide the necessary cellular building blocks to construct that fresh collagen. Use your peptide serum first to prep the skin, followed by your retinol at night.
What’s the difference between peptides and proteins like collagen?
It comes down to size. Collagen is a massive, complex protein molecule that is simply too large to penetrate the skin barrier when applied topically – it just sits on top to hydrate. Peptides are tiny, fragmented pieces of those proteins that are small enough to actually sink into the skin and trigger real structural changes.
How do I know which peptide to look for?
Different peptides do different jobs. Signal peptides (like palmitoyl pentapeptide) tell the skin to make more collagen. Carrier peptides deliver trace minerals to aid healing. Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides (like argireline, often called ‘Botox in a bottle’) temporarily relax facial muscles to soften expression lines. A product combining a few different types will definitely yield the best results.
Can peptides cause purging or breakouts?
No. Peptides are non-exfoliating and naturally bio-compatible, so they will not cause your skin to purge or break out. If you experience breakouts, it’s likely due to heavy oils or textures in the base cream or serum rather than the peptides themselves.
How long does it take to see results from peptides?
While you will notice an immediate plumping and hydrating effect, structural improvements like firmer skin and shallower wrinkles require consistent use. Expect to see visible changes in your skin’s bounce and texture after about 4–8 weeks, which is the time it takes for new collagen to form.
Can you use peptides when pregnant or breastfeeding?
Yes. Peptides are completely safe to use throughout pregnancy and breastfeeding. They are highly recommended during this time as a safe alternative to retinoids for targeting fine lines and maintaining skin elasticity.
Any tips to use with peptides?
● Separate your acids: To get the most out of your peptides, use your AHAs/BHAs or pure vitamin C in the morning, and save your peptide serums for your evening routine.
● Don't forget the neck: Because peptides are phenomenal at firming and tightening, always extend your application down to your neck and décolletage where skin thinning happens fastest.
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