If you’ve ever examined your face at close range and wondered what those tiny black dots are, welcome. You may be looking at an open comedone, aka a blackhead. So let’s chat about what we can do with them.

A blackhead is a type of acne. It forms when oil and dead skin cells plug a hair follicle, leaving the opening visible at the surface, which when it stays exposed to air, causes the material at the surface to oxidise and turn dark. Essentially the black bit you notice.

However, blackheads aren’t to be confused with sebaceous filaments, those small, fairly uniform dots you often see across your nose. Blackheads are plugs of oil and dead skin cells that look dark at the surface. Sebaceous filaments are normal structures that help channel oil onto the skin’s surface. AKA your skin doing its job. You might be able to make filaments less noticeable, but you can’t remove them permanently (and there’s no need to.)

For actual blackheads, salicylic acid is a good ingredient to look for. It’s oil-soluble, meaning it helps loosen the buildup of dead skin cells within pores and makes it useful for congestion. No matter the exfoliant, it’s always important to start slowly. A few products I love.

Cosmedix Clarify Salicylic Acid Foaming Cleanser- Not budget, but such a great exfoliating cleanser for an oily skin. Will help with daily gentle exfoliation without stripping the skin. Some skins may be able to use this morning and night. For others x1 a day is fine. As always, just be mindful of other active products in your routine so you don’t overdo it.

Aspect Exfoliating Clay Mask- This is a combination clay, lactic and salicylic acid exfoliating face mask. It will refine your skin texture, decongest and help to keep the pores clear for a much brighter, clearer skin.

Medik8 Press and Clear - This is a salicylic acid-based toner that is perfect for swiping either on the full face or on areas where your blackheads might be popping up alone (i.e., your T-zone.) Again, how often you can use a product like this will really depend on your skin. If blackheads on your nose are your main priority, some skins will be fine with daily use, and you can use on one area only.

Topical retinoids help clear existing blackheads and prevent new ones by reducing the dead skin cell buildup that starts the clog (and in some instances, acne treatments like tretinoin may be the better option than over the counter.) The main thing to remember is to introduce them gradually, never forget to moisturise and give your skin lots of hydration too. Consistency is key! You have to think of the long game, not an overnight transformation.

Skinceuticals Retinol 0.3-0.5% - I love this retinol, it's very strong, so maybe not one to start if you’re a sensitive skin. However, once your skin adapts to it, it will help your skin look smoother and clearer.

I do also have to mention professional extractions! Because if your skin care alone is not doing the job, in clinic we can remove existing blackheads, particularly stubborn ones. However, it’s important to remember that removing doesn’t prevent another from forming, so your home routine still matters!

Chemical peels may also be beneficial as they can reduce blackheads by exfoliating and loosening the buildup. The best peel to suit your skin will be determined in clinic. So always start with a consultation.

Reminder, while these are all effective options there’s no need to start with all of them at once.  A consistent skincare routine, tailored to your skin that can be tolerated well is the most important thing!