Is My Skincare Breaking Me Out Or Doing Its Job?
Brittany Stewart is a beauty journalist and podcaster with an extensive collection of red lipsticks that look the same but definitely aren’t. When she’s not hosting beauty podcast, Beauty Island, you’ll find her searching for the best frizz-fighting, curly hair products and the face mask that will solve (all) her problems.
I’ve been trying lots of new skincare recently, including shopping from my own stash. It’s been a lot of fun; rediscovering old favourites, reminding myself about beauty expiry dates (yes, that face mask from three years ago really has dried up and belongs in the bin) and refining my regimen to be filled with the products that do the most for my skin.
One side effect of introducing some powerful new products into my routine? My skin hasn’t always responded so positively. The latest offender? Vitamin C. You see, the promise of glowing skin has had a few, erm, bumps along the way.
For me, it’s been most noticeable around my chin. A smattering of unwelcome pimples.
But is it a breakout (something to be concerned about) or my skin purging (a sign the product could actually be working)?
In the name of good skin (and let’s be honest, a tiny little bit of my own self-interest!) I found out.
What Is A Skin Purge?
According to dermatologist Dr Leona Yip, skin purging is a healthy and expected skin reaction.
“It’s the “flaring” of existing or new breakout of blemishes and acne caused by the active ingredients of new topical products on the skin,” she explains.
The active ingredients cause accelerated skin cell turnover and exfoliation of skin debris (things like dead skin cells, sebum, and bacteria) to allow new, healthy skin to quickly replace it.
So, what are the common ingredients that can trigger a skin purge?
They're probably sitting in your bathroom cabinet. The more powerful ingredient, the more likely it is to be potentially getting your skin to purge. After all, that’s half the reason you’re using it in the first place.
According to Dr Yip, common culprits include:
- Acne topical products: including salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide and retinoids
- Chemical exfoliants and peels: like glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid
- Antioxidants, such as Vitamin C.
What’s Causing My Skin To Breakout?
If it’s a breakout you’re dealing with, it’s likely a combination of the ingredients themselves AND the product formulation that’s clogging your skin pores. Flags could be essential oils, greasy or oil-based moisturisers, or even your makeup.
“Many ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ home remedies and skin products tend to cause breakouts, so use products that are ‘oil-free’, ‘non-comedogenic’, ‘fragrance-free’ and ‘hypoallergenic’,” says Dr Yip.
Anddd How Do I Tell The Difference?
“A skin purge tends to affect skin areas that are usually already affected by similar blemishes or breakouts, whereas a reaction or breakout to a specific product or combination can affect new areas,” she says.
The purge accelerates the arrival of blockages (including whiteheads, blackheads, lurking pimples/cysts) that were already in the skin.
The more noticeable signs of a skin purge will generally settle fast and don’t require treatment, while a breakout lasts longer and may need treatment to help send it on its way. The full process of purging, however, can last up to a month - the time it takes for the skin to cycle through renewal.
If skin is irritated by a product or allergic, you’ll likely experience skin flaking, red patches, blotches, and spots which are often itchy and sensitive.
Now What?
As strange as it may seem, skin purging is a sign that the active ingredients in your skincare are working. So while a purge may not be pleasant, it’s part of the process.
“You can keep using the product but introduce it slower to allow your skin to adapt. Leave it on for a shorter amount of them then wash off, or use it less frequently to begin with in the first few weeks,” says Dr Yip.
She also recommends diluting the product in a light moisturiser for the first few weeks to ease in.
“Use a gentle cleanser and avoid physically exfoliating or scrubbing your skin.”
However if it’s a breakout or allergic skin reaction, stop using the product immediately - a gentle cleanser and a light moisturiser will help the skin heal. If the reaction persists for longer than a few weeks, seek an appointment with your dermatologist.
Looking To Try Some Actives? Here Are My Faves:
A must-have for anyone with oily and acne-prone skin. The powerful combo of niacinamide and zinc help to quickly clear up and calm breakouts, as well as reduce the severity and frequency. It’s also more gentle than stronger actives like retinol and salicylic acid, making it ideal for sensitive skin. With over 1800 positive reviews - and all for less than your morning coffee and pastry - it’s a winner.
One of the best places to start for anyone looking to upgrade their skincare regimen. A cult chemical exfoliant, this award-winning, best-selling, and fast-acting Liquid Gold acts as an overnight facial thanks to a powerful blend of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids, including glycolic acid. Helping to resurface the skin overnight, it’s suitable for most skin types and delivers noticeable results almost immediately.
Vitamin C is a favourite for its brightening properties, and this one is certainly worth any potential purging. The powerful serum contains 100% stable Vitamin C to help fight visible signs of ageing, boost radiance and repair free radical damage. Suitable for all skin types, it will leave you with plump, soft and smooth skin.
Let this potent serum packaged with powerful ingredients including retinol (also known as Vitamin A) get your skin back into shape while you sleep. A star pupil in your night-time skincare regimen, it helps smooth any fine lines and wrinkles, stimulates cell turnover, regeneration and collagen production, and protects skin against environmental damage thanks to antioxidants.
