The Best Skincare Ingredients for Hydration, Pigmentation, Ageing and Dark Circles

If you check the back of your fave skincare products you’ll often find a list of terrifyingly complicated words that make you wish you paid more attention in high school chemistry.

If you’re starting from scratch and searching for an in-depth look into skincare, check out our podcast Skincare School with Dr Michelle Wong (aka Lab Muffin) who is a cosmetic chemist and science educator with a PhD in chemistry.

We’ve gotten used to some of the popular ingredients (looking at you hyaluronic acid) but now and again, we come across terms that leave us baffled.

Recently, three buzzy beauty ingredients (Polyglutamic acid, Tranexamic acid, and Caffeine) came up on our radar so we reached out to Yads Cauchi, Dermal Therapist, Nutritionist and Beauty Journalist, to help us demystify them.

1. Polyglutamic Acid (PGA).

Best for: helping with dryness and age management.

Polyglutamic acid is generally considered a gentle hydrating ingredient suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

PGA is a humectant, which means it attracts and binds moisture to the skin. This can be especially beneficial for people with dry skin, as it can help to hydrate and plump the skin.

It also works for ageing as dehydration is a major contributor to the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, so by keeping the skin hydrated, PGA may help reduce the appearance of these signs of ageing.

Skincare products that contain polyglutamic acid:

Ole Henriksen Barrier Booster Orange Ferment Essence 120ml

This dreamy skin-drenching essence has an antioxidant-rich formula that’s made to be applied to freshly cleansed skin. It helps to maximise hydration and prime your skin to fully soak up the ensuing products in your routine. This orange Ole Henriksen wonder was created to leave your skin bright, plump, and luminous.

Dermalogica Pro-Collagen Banking Serum

This silky gel-textured serum uses collagen, amino acids, carnosine, dipeptide, antioxidants, and polyglutamic acid to help protect, preserve, and promote your skin’s collagen stores. Check out longtime beauty journalist, Sarah Tarca’s full review here.

2. Tranexamic Acid.

Best for: treating pigmentation.

Tranexamic acid is best for people looking to treat pigmentation as it aids in reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation. This includes sun spots, age spots, and melasma.

Tranexamic acid works by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment that gives skin its colour.

It's also great for post-inflammatory erythema (PIE): the redness or purple discolouration that can linger after acne breakouts have healed.

Tranexamic acid's anti-inflammatory properties can help reduce PIE and even skin tone.

Overall, tranexamic acid is a promising ingredient for those looking to improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation, redness, and uneven skin tone.

Skincare products that contain tranexamic acid:

Murad Replenishing Multi-Acid Peel

A gentle, yet effective, exfoliator that uses a blend of acids (including our beloved hero ingredient tranexamic acid) to accelerate cell renewal and promote smoother, brighter skin. It also contains a few skin-loving ingredients like holy basil and lipids that support the skin barrier.

Murad Rapid Dark Spot Correcting Serum

An acid-based serum that promotes cell turnover and is formulated to reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. During a trial, 84% of people reported a reduction in the look of dark spots after 14 days of use.* You can read about it first-hand here.

*Clinically proven results via instrumental measurement of areas with dark spots. With Murad regimen.

PCA Skin Pigment Gel Pro 29ml

An advanced, dermatologically-tested corrector that’s been formulated to target stubborn forms of UV and hormonally-induced pigmentation. 74% of subjects demonstrated a reduction in hyperpigmentation . Results after 16 weeks.**

**74% of subjects demonstrated a reduction in hyperpigmentation results after 16 weeks.

3. Caffeine.

Best for: puffiness and dark circles.

Caffeine can help constrict blood vessels, which may reduce puffiness around the eyes as well as redness and inflammation.

Caffeine's anti-inflammatory properties may help soothe and calm irritated skin, reducing redness caused by conditions like rosacea or eczema.

However, It's important to note that while caffeine may offer these benefits, the effects are often temporary. Also, more research is needed for age management claims.

Skincare products that contain caffeine:

The Ordinary Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG

This is hands down, one of The Ordinary’s most popular eye products and we can see why – it’s an eye wakeup call in a bottle. This super-affordable product helps reduce the appearance of dark circles as well as toning down puffiness with its high (5%) concentration of caffeine.

INNISFREE Green Tea Caffeine Bright-Eye Serum 10ml

A caffeine-based eye area treatment with a roller ball applicator that adds a cool massaging effect to every swipe. It’s got added niacinamide to provide a brightening effect and squalene to add a boost of hydration.

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair HA Hydrating Eye Cream 15ml

This fast-absorbing eye cream uses caffeine and hyaluronic acid to smooth, hydrate, and depuff the eye area. It’s especially suited to dry skin because the formula contains extra ingredients like colloidal oatmeal to soothe and boost the skin’s hydration.

Fancy some more helpful skincare tips and products? Dig into these Beauty IQ articles next:

• Achieve Next-Level Skincare Results Between Your Treatments With Cosmedix Elite

• L’Occitane’s Almond Range Is What Your Body Care Routine Is Missing. Trust Me.

• How to Care for Your Skin When You’re Going *Through* It